Solar Installation Guide

Many people are interested in renewable energy and are installing it themselves. Here's a quick guide on electrical components and their connection order to install.

1. The battery, it's the heart of the system. It's where energy is stored, it's charged via a solar panel and powers equipment from devices attached to its terminals. So this is always the first place to start. You should be using fuses on all cables which would have a direct connection to power. If you also have a switch panel you should include 1 large fuse directly off the battery to the switch panel, then smaller fuses for each circuit running of each switch.

2. Charging circuit, this normally consists of 2 scenarios, either a solar panel and solar controller, or a mains powered battery charger. Both are OK to use at the same time to charge up a flat battery.

For Solar Panels connect the battery to the solar regulator first. Connect the battery neg to the controller battery neg. input/output, then connect the pos. terminal of the battery to the battery input/output. (we say input/output as you might be using the solar controller devices outputs which are normally indicated as a lightbulb to power your devices). If you have any equipment that exceeds the current rating of the solar controller you shouldn't use these lightbulb outputs but instead connect your discharging equipment directly to the battery terminals so you don't overload the controller).

If you are connecting a mains charger that can be connected to either a generator or a mains power source you just need to connect the positive and negative terminals to the battery. If it's a permanent installation it would be best to use eyelets and not the alligator clips as they can come off easily.

Now for the solar panel - a 36 cell panel outputs around 17-18 volts which is too high a voltage to connect directly to a panel so it needs to be connected to a solar controller. It should also be fused and switched so you can turn it off when necessary. Connect the negative terminal first and then the positive terminal.

With that done your solar controller should have the solar panel input indicating its working and the battery being connected will be charging. If the battery is already fully charged then there won't be must current flowing and it might only indicate a voltage up to 13.6 volts but that's OK. A fully charged battery doesn't need a charge. If however, the battery was flat, let's say the voltage was only 10 volts, it will take many hours, maybe days to get the voltage up to 13.6 volts. That's not uncommon if using one small panel on one large battery. Just let it do its thing until a full charge has been done prior to you discharging energy from the battery.

Reconditioning a battery?

CTEK chargers have 2 conditioning charge states.

The first is the desulphation stage 1, its a pulse charge but is only used if the 12 volts open circuit voltage is below 10 volts when first connected to the charger. The idea behind this type of pulsing charge is to slowly bring the battery back up into normal charging conditions by slowly bringing the voltage up and not by overheating the battery or ramming large current into plates not wanting to operate outside normal conditions.

The second conditioning state is a mode selected by the users on the following models. MXS 5.0, MXS 10, PRO15, PRO25, and other professional series chargers. Mode 5 is added to the otherwise 7 stage charger to increase the voltage to 15.8v (on a 12 volt battery) and maintain a low absorption charge to ensure the battery cells are equalised and that every possible area of the plate is fully saturated with energy. Much like leaving a sponge in water to ensure it soaks up every last little piece of water it can.

Vehicle's electrical systems are designed to operate within industry standards which on 12 volt systems includes voltages up to 16 volts. In fact, we know of many vehicles that peak at over 17 volts but still use 12 volt batteries. In general anything above 2.45 volts per cell (14.7 volts) is a maximum charge rate but for short periods of time a higher voltage helps desulphate lead crystal build-up and can be very helpful to extend batteries usable life. It can also be the treatment that pushes a battery too far and it fails from drying out so the frequency of use should be managed.

Keep in mind a recondition charge is only performed once on a battery when the battery is stored for a long period of time as the stage is only initiated the once.

VSR or DC 2 DC charger?

Case Study - VSR or DC to DC charger

Well that will depend on your situation. We recently advised a client on the benefits of DC to DC charging because he highlighted a problem with his existing system in a boat they just purchased. The system had a start battery (N150) a service battery for house loads (to run equipment like fridge, lights etc) and a battery up-front (bow) with the anchor/winch. The system used a DVSR between the start battery and house battery. The start battery circuit also had an isolated single smart output VSR with Low Voltage Disconnect so it didn't flatten the start battery. (essentially features of a VSR but marketed to suit the sales purpose). The customer said if the engine was running it potentially kept all 3 batteries charged.

Lets work this out; If the start battery was an N150 with 184Ah, it might have only needed a 15 minutes charge at 13.6 volts to recharge from one engine start. It is however connected to the anchor battery which was a 100Ah and is over 5 metres away from the start battery which was close to the alternator. We know that there will be voltage drop over that distance, a higher internal resistance of the battery and the added resistance of the cables over 5 metres. There is no way the alternator can differentiate between the two batteries needs. It provides a fixed voltage and the same current to both batteries. Equalisation may occur if the banks are connected for 24 hours but we know they are only connected while the VSR is active and the engine is running.

The house battery which is parallel connected to the house battery using a Dual sensing Voltage Sensitive Relay (DVSR) in this instance was another 100Ah battery. So parallel with a starting 184Ah start battery). They are never going to be the same state of charge so let's just assume the house battery will have a current discharging from it while being used. The alternator will supply a float running voltage of approx 13.X volts. That voltage is required to charge a flat or discharged house battery with its low internal resistance because of its discharge. But its got in parallel with it a twice the capacity almost fully charged start battery with high internal resistance. The differences in capacity and resistances will cause the low supply of current from the alternator. The low current and low voltage will slow charge the house battery meaning it may not ever reach a full charge unless you run the onboard engine for 8 plus hours a day giving both batteries time to equalise and the batteries to finish the absorption and or float phase of charging a battery.

The solution: the installation of a DC 2 DC charger on the house battery where the voltage can be ramped up to meet the demands of the charging profile required to fully recharge a potentially flat house battery. The customer increased the battery capacity to offer a longer time between charging requirements but this wouldn't of been possible if some form of regulation was used as charging at 14.7 volts is 50% more efficient than charging at 13.X volts from an alternators output. It means the house battery with its larger capacity has a regulated voltage that's matched to the battery type (14.4v for flooded or 14.7v for AGM or otherwise) so best maintain and support a healthy state of charge.

The start battery is no-longer paralleled to the house battery because the DC 2 DC units isolates the batteries ensuring the capacity and state of charge isn't messing with the absorption of energy into the start and now that is inline with the bow battery which is only used with the engine running the current requirement is met by the alternator. Later the client may add another DC 2 DC for that battery but it raises the other question.

Do I need a DC 2 DC charger for the extra dollars it will cost if the secondary battery is less money than the difference between a DC charger and a VSR?

Well, that's a question only you can answer, but with DC chargers also managing the chemistry type, or being able to select a custom charge profile that suits your situation it doesn't take long to make the number work whichever way you need to justify on way or another and that's your call.